Akoya Cultured Pearls

ORIGIN: Saltwater’s in Japan and China

OYSTER: Akoya Pearl Oyster, Pinctada fucata

SIZE RANGE: 2mm-9mm

NATURAL COLORS: White-Ivory, Rosé pink color overtones

KNOWN FOR: Mirror-like Luster, Pink-Rosé Hues

The epitome of the classic pearl, Akoya pearls were the first to be successfully cultured. Akoya pearl culturing began in Japan in the early 1900’s. They dominated the pearl culturing industry for so much of the century that “cultured pearls” became synonymous with Japanese Akoya pearls. It wasn’t until the 60’s that China started culturing pearls, and it wasn’t until the 80’s that their Akoya pearls even came close to the quality of the Japanese pearls.

Like the other saltwater pearl types, Akoya pearls are cultured by implanting a round, shell bead into the oyster. This helps to control the end pearl shape to be near-round, to the most desired, perfect round shape. The Akoya oyster only harvests 1-2 pearls per oyster, and with the smallest pearl size range, any Akoya pearls over 8mm are increasingly rare and valuable. Cherished for their mirror-like lustrous surface, round shape, and rich rosé color overtones, Akoya pearls remain the world’s most sought after and beloved pearl type.

South Sea Pearls

ORIGIN: Australia, Philippine’s

OYSTER: Silver or Golden Lipped Pearl Oyster, Pinctada maxima

SIZE RANGE: 8mm-20mm

NATURAL COLORS: White-Silver and Gold

KNOWN FOR: Rarity, Opulent colors and large size 

The first attempts to culture South Sea pearls were made in the 1890’s and it wasn’t until the 1950’s-60 that they were able to be cultured on a commercial level. Because these oysters have not been able to thrive outside their native waters, the culturing areas are extremely limited. In addition to this, the large size of the pearl requires a longer grow time than other pearls, putting them at higher risk for damage from disease, pollution, and weather. Today, South Sea pearls are the most rare and valuable of all pearl types.

There are 2 types of P. maxima oysters – the Silver Lipped and Golden Lipped Pearl Oysters. While the Silver Lipped oyster generally produces white to silver pearls, and the Golden Lipped oyster produces golden shades of pearls, both types can produce either range of hues. Like the other saltwater pearl types, South Sea pearls are implanted with a round, shell bead to help ensure round pearls, and only 1-2 pearls can be harvested from each oyster. Similar to the Black Lipped oyster that produces Tahitian pearls, the P. maxima can also be re-nucleated up to 2 additional times producing larger pearls each time. The silvery white and golden hues are unique to the South Sea pearls, as is their thick nacre and rich, satiny luster. The warm waters of the South Seas cause the pearl’s nacre to build up faster and thicker than the other pearl types. This makes the crystals of the nacre more spread out, and therefore, less sharp and reflective.

Tahitian Black Pearls

ORIGIN: Islands of French Polynesia

OYSTER: Black Lipped Pearl Oyster, Pinctada margaritifera

SIZE RANGE: 8mm – 16mm

NATURAL COLORS: Range of dark hues

KNOWN FOR: Exotic Peacock Color

For hundreds of years, the Black Lipped Pearl Oyster was harvested by natives of the French Polynesia area for its meat and beautiful, Mother-of-Pearl shell. By chance, natural dark pearls were occasionally found inside. The rarity of these pearls caused them to be nick-named, “The Queen of Pearls and the Pearl of Queens,” as it was only royalty that was able to afford these naturally-occurring dark pearls. It wasn’t until the mid-1960s that these pearls started being cultured, using Japanese culturing techniques. Previous to this time, the only cultured black pearls on the market were dyed. Due to the widespread disbelief of cultured black pearls, it wasn’t until the late 70’s and early 80’s that Tahitian pearls became sought after in the market. Tahitian pearls’ popularity soared for their large size and natural dark body color. Today, their popularity continues with Tahitian pearls accounting for over 50% of French Polynesia’s exports.

Like the Akoya oyster, the Black Lipped oyster is only able to produce 1-2 pearls per oyster, though after harvest each oyster can be re-nucleated up to 2 additional times producing subsequently larger pearls. The sensitive oyster has failed numerous attempts at being cultured outside their native waters, making the culturing process expensive and limited. Though prized for being the only naturally dark pearls, Tahitians are rarely ever a true black. Instead they are most often found in a gray body color with greenish overtones, but can also be found in virtually every color of the rainbow.